Known/(Presumed) Mycorrhizal fungi fd 11/14/98

dwheeler at teleport.com dwheeler at teleport.com
Sat Dec 5 03:19:30 EST 1998


In article <366649D5.71F9518A at northcoast.com>,
  Richard McGuiness <Armich at northcoast.com> wrote:
> <!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
> <html>
> I've read a lot of your messages, and I ask you to consider an even wider
> application of your knowledge. See my erosion note below in this group.
> These species, together with an understanding of hypheal connections with
> mycorhyzzal reservoir species of forbs, shrubs and trees, known rate of
> reintroduction of the rhizosphere, mulching of job sites, and companion
> planting to jump start&nbsp; the carbon cycle give us powerful and useful
> landscape stabilization tools. I have to count on surrounding properties
> to reinoccuylate burnt over areas, and maybe harbor late seral associated
> fungi that may be needed further down the road. I'm afraid pickers may
> deplete the area before time. I also need to plant many slides, washouts,
> debris flows and torrents in a revaged creek. A solid plan to reknit this
> landscape beyond tree planting may be seized upon by many watershed groups
> and timber companies. Glue up my watershed and you can come pick all the
> mushrooms you want.
> <br>Richard McGuiness

To help you with your particular area, Richard, I'd have to know a lot more
about the slopes, elevation, soil types, and composition. Steep slopes are
held together best by Hysterangium sps, which literally tie the soil and rock
together in mycorrhizal matt communities. The mycelium of this fungus
literally ropes elements together, making erosion nearly impossible.

On gentler slopes it makes more sense to use Hymenogaster parksii, Martellia
brunnescens, Rhizopogon sps, Elaphomyces granulatus and others.

If you have truffle on steeper slopes, straw helps slow erosion, but doesn't
stop it. However, straw inoculated with Stropharia rugosa-annulata may help in
two ways.

First, it forms strong ropey rhizomorphs through either straw or chips,
binding the whole together and making it more stable.

Second, it degrades the cell walls of woody debris, making the interior of
the cell readily available to mycorrhizal fungi to transfer to growing trees.
Think of this as immediate fertilizer.

If you erosion-prone soil is very steep, mycorrhizae may take several years to
establish themselves.

If you are just starting to plant, I'll send you some Rhizopogons for
inoculation (enough for about 3 million seedlings: just tip the trees in the
solution before planting, or spray it on the roots before planting) for $30.

After you get the dried Rhizopogons, grind them fine and apply to the water. A
little goes a long way!

I sold an equal amount to a local tree farmer who planted 120,000 seedlings
last April-May on 50 acres (about 8-10 foot spacings). In August, I saw two
trees which had died. But even those may have been run over by vehicles. I'm
sure there were others. But the point is: only 2 trees out of 120,000
seedlings could be seen quickly. What's your seedling survival rate after
planting?

Daniel B. Wheeler
http://www.oregonwhitetruffles.com

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