tree moving

Mike the Tree Doctor mlamana at bestweb.net
Tue Jan 25 21:39:26 EST 2000


Appleman:

Appropriate amounts of water is more important than lots and lots. Rootball
size is largely independent of canopy diameter. Root-pruning is key. Your
dollar estimates are bit low.

Cheers!

Mike the Tree Doctor
www.treedoctors.com


mystic <mystic at lcc.net> wrote in message news:388BF685.1848 at lcc.net...
> kbonnici at ivory.trentu.ca wrote:
> >
> > The 'tree doctors' web site got the best of me...has anyone else been?
> > Get a load of the size of those trees being moved! How the heck is it
possible?
> > And how much does it cost??? What kind of aftercare is involved? Are the
trees
> > shaded for a while after replanting? Are they actually moved in full
leaf?
> > I am certainly puzzled!
> >
> > Kellie
>
> I worked for a few nurseries in that business, and while we never moved
> anything much over a 4" caliper, I saw some of the big boys at work.
> It's possible if you take the time to do some preparation. Sometimes
> they'll prep a really big tree for two years before they offer it for
> sale by inducing new roots closer to the trunk so that there will be
> enough to support the tree's functions after it's moved.  They do this
> by root-pruning - they make a deep cut 1/3 or 1/2 of the way back from
> the dripline every 2 feet around the tree the first year, and then cut
> the places they didn't cut the next year.  Root pruning forces new root
> growth closer to the trunk, so that when they come in with their digging
> equipment (yeah, it's a mondo giant tree-digger thing that looks sort of
> like a cone-claw) they get plenty of roots along with the tree.
> Cost?  Hundreds, even thousands of dollars for the really big ones.
> Aftercare?  Lots and lots and lots of steady water and root-inducing
> fertilizers.  Smart tree-movers will thin and shape when they put it
> in.  Greedy ones won't, and blame you if the tree dies.  It's best for
> the tree if they move it in Jan. or Feb., but I've seen them put in
> during mid-July, too.  That's more stressful, but if you are religious
> about the watering, you can probably get away with it.  Mature trees
> don't really need shading.  Sometimes with smaller ones, we'd wrap the
> trunk w/biodegradable insulation paper, just to take a little of the
> stress off the cambium.  It's big money  --  strictly for the rich and
> impatient.
>
> Appleman






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