help with fishtail palm

gardenlenNoSpam at hotmail.com.Invalid gardenlenNoSpam at hotmail.com.Invalid
Sun Mar 11 14:42:31 EST 2001


On Sat, 3 Mar 2001 14:20:23 -0600 (CST), vdfsamba at webtv.net (Jack
Vanderwerf) wrote:

>I've got a 5 foot tail fishtail palm, I've had it about a year. It is
>placed next to a window with southern exposure but not a klot of direct
>light.
>
could it be root bound? if so this will need to be fixed, this however
does not mean repotting to a bigger pot automaticaly unless of course
that is waht you want to do.

>Problem :
>the leaves are a washed out pale green....
>The leaves ends are rusty yellow- oxide brown, as far as 1" into the
>body of the leaf........
>The stems in places are not green, but woody grayish brown..............
>The leaves are also in spots are speckled in almost a bleach spattered
>pattern of butterscotch yellow..............
>It is in a 14" pot, a fine peat mixture, never soaked with water, but
>generally, it gets a healthy drink (every5 days or so) ,and then allowed
>to dry out.......
>It is furtalized either monthly, or bi-monthly....
>And it has endured TWO major infestations of spidermites (not knowing it
>was susceptable, failed to watch closely)......
>
>The infestation has probably stunted it's growth.

or root bound conditions.

i'm no horticulturist either jack but here goes with my knowledge:

>
>1) ? Pale leaves due to a lack of iron or from the mites ?

could also be lack of light or not getting the right moisture. if you
are prone to spider mite to me that would indicate that the humidity
in that area is too dry, this would be expected in most houses but
made worse with central heating and ari conditioning.

best way to water through the growing period water once or twice a
week place pot into container large enough so that you can fill that
container with water up to but not over the rim of the plant pot let
it soak for about an hour, then let it drain and return to the desired
position.

to increase humidity by a larger than normal tray for under the pot
one that is at least 2"s deep put a layer of fish tank charcoal in the
tray then cover with coloured stones keep this topped with water. sit
the plant pot on top of this.

place buckets or containers of water around the room, or install a
fish tank, or i believe you can purcahse a humidifier..

another helpful thing to do is mist the fronds a couple of times a day
and about twice a week (through the growing cycle) add some foliar
fertiliser in the mist bottle mixed at about 1/4 strength.

>2) ? The spots and woody patches due to fungus, or the mites ?

if it is fungus i'd wonder if the plant is over saturated in the pot,
it doesn't hurt to let them dry out a bit between waterings

>3) ? Rusty leaf ends due to too much water, not enough water, acidity,
>lack of acidity, fungus, mites, ?

without a picture could just be the frond dying off.

>4) ? Should it have a different potting mixture ?

this could be so i always suggest a good organic mix never use
proffesional nursery mixes for plants in the home, there are 2
different growing methods especially when it comes to watering and
feeding.

>5)  It appears that new growth that has been in limbow for much of this
>pastyear may actually be starting to grow again.....
>
with a plant doing poorly as soon as is possible when any winter
chills ahve gone place the plant into a well lit outside position
where it is protected from wind and is in a warm spot, a rule of thumb
for indoor pl;ants is 2 weeks in and 5 weeks out.

for me you are fertilising way too much better to rely on foliar
feeding, use a 9 month slow release fertiliser applied at the
beginning of each growing season, you can love a plant to death
literally.

they are tropical p[lants so you need to try and emulate as close as
is possible those conditions.

please excuse my typo's

len

>Any assistance would be great, and you may also email me direct, Thanks
>
>http://community.webtv.net/vdfsamba/Jackspage

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"in the end ya' gotta do what ya' gotta do" but consider others and the environment






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